Patterns, Sewing

The last 10% for women

This is a living document. As I do more fittings, identify fixable issues and receive more questions about fitting I will be adding that to this blog entry. Please let me know if anything here is confusing or if you have any helpful hints/tricks to add to this. – Sylvie The first 90% (see here for cotte pattern or here…

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14th-15th Century, Garb/Clothing, Patterns

Conjectural late 14th/15th century men’s cotehardie pattern

This pattern will create a man’s late 14th/15th century cotehardie without a collar with a hemline falling at just above the knee. Click here if you’re looking for the women’s pattern. When drafted the pattern includes 1/2″ seam allowance on all edges. Because of the tight fit this probably needs some type of closure (rather than pulling it on over…

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hourglass
16th Century

Bodice Support

Women are not cones. We are (for the most part) hour glass shaped. In order for a bodice to be supportive and look flattering at least one of the seams needs to have a vaguely hourglass shaped hunk taken out of it. This is an ongoing debate in the re-enactment community. Do you pull the fabric out of the center…

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Waisted Kirtle

Autumn Gold Kirtle

Autumn Gold sleeveless waisted kirtle started 7/24/2019. Worked on sporadically, and then finally finished on September 25, 2019. Details: – kirtle will be side laced. – edges will NOT use bias binding – this one will use one layer of interlining in the whole bodice and a second layer of interlining at the center front. I’ll be pad stitching them…

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16th Century, Waisted Kirtle

What the tuck?!?

Last night I finished stitching the tuck** onto the bottom of my Autumn Gold kirtle. Just as I finished stitching the tuck I looked at it and had the following mini-conversation and epiphany. Me: This tuck would be really convenient for pregnancy.Also me: Or for young girls who have not gotten full height… or hand-me-down clothes.Me: Yeah. But that stitch…

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Image Review

Joachim Beuckelaer, “Allegory of Negligence” ca. 1563

KMSKA Antwerp, Joachim Beuckelaer, “Allegory of Negligence”  “Brothel Scene”ca. 1563 Updated link to zoomable Image: https://vlaamsekunstcollectie.be/en/collection/858 [Edited in 2025 to add: I originally spotted this image on the Google ArtsAndCulture site.. but it disappeared. On the Google link it was called “Allegory of Negligence”. In January 2025 I found this image on the FlemeshArtCollection site. It’s listed as being on display…

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Accessories, Antwerpen/Low-country, Garb/Clothing

Huve – Antwerpen white linen coif

Antwerpen white linen coif started April 2, 2019 and finished April 7, 2019. Special thanks to Aleit Pietersdochter over at The New Cut who is working on documenting 16th century Dutch costuming terms and dug up the terms “Huve”, “Huive”, “Huyfd” which seem to be the proper name for this white linen coif. Although a lot of the Antwerpen market women wear their hair…

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Front view of Cobalt Kirtle no. 2.
Garb/Clothing, Waisted Kirtle

Cobalt Kirtle no. 2

Blue sleeveless waisted kirtle started June 21, 2019. Finished on July 2, 2019. I’m getting back into the swing of things. I need a new dress. The plan is to make a cobalt blue linen kirtle and wear that under a bright coral wool Antwerpen gown. This is the second kirtle I’ve made using the Cobalt blue linen from Fabric-store.com.…

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