I am again reminded that I need to try harder when I’m using a pattern. When you’re making something that’s closely fitted to your skin you really really need to make sure you don’t (say) accidentally add 1/2 inch to each side of all of the pattern pieces so that the sewn together first draft in linen is about 3…
Category: 16th Century
Finished #1-4 above. I forgot to add the tabs to the back-bottom of the bodice. I’ll see about adding it to the final one. Initially I added seam allowance to the straps.. but during the cutting out I convinced myself that wasn’t needed and I cut it off. I really shouldn’t have listened to myself. I’m pretty sure I’ll need…
Edith came by last night and helped fix the top of the bodice. In addition to adding the sleeve caps she helped to fit the area around the arm. After it was all fitted she marked where the seam lines should be. Side-back into the arm hole and across the top of the shoulder (just behind the top.. more like…
Started on the pants last night. After 20 minutes of frustrated pinning of fabric Fearghus suggested the he has some ratty cloth pants that could be sacrificed to the pattern. It took all of 5 minutes to get the seam lines drawn in the right place and cut it out. It took much much longer to lay out the new…
Green and Gold Swiss Gown
Diary started August 1, 2006 Progress: “Finished” 5/30/2010. Dress is now wearable. Still has some finishing work to do on it. Summary So it turns out I look smashing in Germans. Whodathunk? So I’m willing to do it some more. This requires that I have more than one german gown. The Cranach type gown is lovely (see Cranach dress diary)..…
FedEx lied, but in a good way. Fabric arrived yesterday. The brown is acceptable. It’s not the “liver” color I wanted.. but it’s good enough. I tried to place the sleeve caps. Hard to do when one side is behind your back.. and that’s the side you need to pin down. I’ll wait on “Open Project Night” (tomorrow) and hope…
Trossfrau/Kampfrau/Swiss Style Dress
This style is seen around 1530 in the wood cuts “The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550″ by Max Geisberg and in the Triumph of Maximillian. Identifying details: – Closed front opening possibly laced or hook/eye. – Predminantly square neckline both front and back (though there are examples of round front/back necks) – Guarding follows the neckline and along the edge of…
German: Holbein (1526’s)
Diary started August 1, 2006 Dress research in progress. Summary Research and Background Details to include: Inspirational Pictures Holbein, Hans the YoungerLais of Corinth1526Limewood, 34,6 x 26,8 cmKunstmuseum, Öffentliche Kunstsammlung, Basle Holbein, Hans the Younger Venus and Amor 1524-25 Limewood, 34,6 x 26,2 cm Kunstmuseum, Öffentliche Kunstsammlung, Basle Cranach the Elder, Lucas(German, 1472-1553)Herodias, about 1530.Oil on panel
Third verse, same as the first
So. Worked on bodice on Sunday. Learnings: Temporary lacing strips are the bomb! If gap between left and right-hand-side of front of dress is say 3 inches wide.. you need a horrendously long lace to tie it closed (longer than my normal 36″ long silk lace) When you have a gap, say 3 inches wide.. and there’s no strong fabric…
I added the sleeves 26×30 (30 is the length of the arm) and gusset (8.5″x8.5″). Because I started with 60″ wide linen it’s plenty roomy. No need to add gores. The sleeves are about 10 inches longer than his arms. This is on purpose. I added cuffs and gathered (knife pleated) the sleeve into the cuff. This gives the shirt…