Kampfrau (Trossfrau)

My sewing muse is a BITCH

First she disappears for like 3 years. THEN when she finally comes back and starts hinting about how spiff it’d be to wear Germans.. and I actually start sewing.. ONLY THEN does she remind me that I’ve totally forgotten how to sew fitted garments.. and although squares and straight angles are nice to sew for early periods (and look nice in online gif patterns).. they totally don’t work for fitted supportive garments (hence the reason I have boob droopage and flattenage on Mockup 1).

So although my Mockup 1 is OK.. it will need ALOT of work to get it fitted right.. AND the final pattern will have wonky curves that will look funny on my pattern gifs. So Mockup 2 is a wash. It was a good thought exercise.. but it’ll never be made into fabric. SIGH.

Stupid sewing muse. I think she wants me to sacrifice a t-shirt to make a duct-tape pattern. Hrm.. Must consider.

Mockup 2 made me consider tweaking my pattern to use 3 pieces instead of 7. It makes sense in my head. Something like this:

Initially I thought about also having the front seam curved but I’m bothered that all three of the vertical seams would be wiggly. I -feel- like at least one of them(center front) should be on the straight. It just seems wrong to be tweaking all three seams to get it to be fitted.

Add to that I’m hesitant to throw away what I already have.. I may procrastinate on the duct tape pattern and just go with tweaking my fabric mockup instead.

Current tweaks in the works:
– Change it to use a side-seam instead of side-back
– Combine side-front and front pieces to get a 3 piece pattern instead of a 7 piece pattern
– Add 1-2 inches at the sides and use that to snork it up to get it to be fitted (Snorking involves pinning, looking in a mirror, pinning some more, then even-ing it out). I want fitted but not really tight. From my experiences with the fitted yellow cote, I just need it to be tight enough under the boobs to keep the boobs elevated.. after that the fitting is all shaping.

Originally I cut the sleeve caps as separate pieces because it allowed to have a very crisp square at the back neckline. Combining these pieces loses that crispness.. I think I’ll have to fiddle with it alot by hand to get it to be as crisp. But combining them does have the bonus of eliminating a couple of extra, unneeded seams.


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