Hemd II

My original Hemd was a good first attempt.. but after several months of wearing it I’ve decided it could do with a little improvement. Since I’m deathly allergic to altering garments that I need to wear I instead decided to make a new hemd.

Here’s my new pattern:

Here’s the reasoning for my new pattern:

Problem: Neckline was cut out to be 2x my neck measurements and then smocked to “take up the excess” unfortunately it didn’t really take up the excess.. so it’s sitting WAY too loose compared to what I want. Original was cut at 40 inches, smocking drew this down to 34 inches.
FIX: The new one’s neckline is cut at 20 inches. I’m afraid that may be a bit tight.. but I’ll try it out.

Problem: On the original the collar cut at 3.5 inches is too tall.
FIX: New one will be cut at 2 inches.

Problem: On the original the seam between the sleeve and the body falls several inches down my upper arm. It’s not an issue when I have closed sleeves but in my sleeveless dress or with loopy sleeves I dislike the way it fits.
FIX: I nipped off triangles at the corner to pull the sleeves in Triangles are 10″ (at the shoulder) x 18″ (at the side). This does bring the seam more in line with the top of my shoulder. When I did this I left out the gusset. I will consider carefully for the next hemd whether I put a gusset in or not.

Problem: On the original the sleeves at 30″ long are too long. Add to that the extra fabric at the shoulders.. they’re -way- too long.
FIX: New ones are cut down to 24″ long. With the triangles removed these may still be a bit too long. I’ll have to fiddle with them or possibly hem them.

Problem: Original was cut at 60 inches long which puts it just about floor length. I worry that it will show when I kirtle my dress.
FIX: New one is cut at 40 inches long. About knee length.

Staying the same:
Smocking pattern: Gather stitches at 1cm each and each line is 1.5 cm apart. The honeycomb pleat stitches will follow the same line at the gather stitches. This should give me a very nice set of diamonds for the neck line.

[Edited to add:
After a year of planning to smock this I finally sat down last night and started to smock this.. and found out that with smocking the neck will be too small. So I’ve changed my mind. This hemd will not have smocking I may embroider it in the future. Instead I’m adding some beads to act as buttons and allow this to close. I will, of course, be adding a Hemd III (hopefully with smocking) in the future.


3 thoughts on “Hemd II

  1. I have been looking at your hemd which is beautifull. So decided that for my new gown that i really want to make a hemd like it. I made a sample piece just to make sure that i have the kinks worked out. I realized that the neckline once smocked has a tendency to turn in. Did you have this problem? I am not sure what i did wrong but do you have an idea on how i could achieve a better looking neckline.

    Thank you for having such a great web site.

    1. Sadly no. On my first hemd the collar was too big (a boat collar) and on the second one I haven’t yet smocked it.

  2. Hi my name is Molly known in the SCA as THL Amalthea Von Thungen. I am the Smooch frau in the picture taken from the site. I have no problem with you using the picture but in the future please ask before borrowing anything from my page. That being said I am very please that you thought the hemd worthy of reproduction. The technique was taught to me by a one of the Drachenwald Swedish fraus a few years back as was construction of most of the kampfrau clothing I wear. Should you have any questions on how to recreate your own version,please feel free to ask me.

    Also I am in the process of doing an Art/Sci master work entry of the 16th century German Hemd. When it is finished I can send you a copy if you like.

    Good luck and keep sewing!

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