Edith came by last night and helped fix the top of the bodice. In addition to adding the sleeve caps she helped to fit the area around the arm. After it was all fitted she marked where the seam lines should be. Side-back into the arm hole and across the top of the shoulder (just behind the top.. more like top-back). Hopefully this will allow me to cut the current pattern apart to make another copy of it (this time with all the pieces attached). The final bodice is a total of 4 pieces. Back, 2 side-back, and front. The back and side-backs will be made of brown fabric. The front will be made of white with the “brustfleck” on the top.
Things to change on the pattern pieces:
- Add about 1″ to the back bottom so that I have room to attach the skirt.
- Add a short square “tail” to the bottom of the middle of the back piece. I want to run the boning down into the tail to prevent those bones from poking me in the top of the butt.
- Add seam allowance at side-back seam and shoulder seam.
- Cut out all pieces. Two layers of linen for each piece.
- Sew inner back and side-back pieces together.
- Sew outer back and side-back pieces together.
- Sew inner full-back piece to outer full-back piece along the top, right and left edges (leaving bottom open). Don’t sew shoulder straps. Flip outside-out and iron.
- Sew inner front piece to outer front piece along top, right and left edges (leaving bottom open). Flip outside-out and iron.
- Add boning channels. Add boning. Add tacking stitches to keep boning in place.
- Add lacing strip to one side of the front piece and the matching side of the back piece.
- Attach other side of front permanently to back
- Try it on.
- Adjust the sleeve caps and sew them together.
Assuming everything above here works:
- Add fashion fabric (brown wool) and decorative trim.
- Make skirt and attach pleated skirt to bodice.
- Make accessories.