I use the slip stitch for rolled hems, attaching linings and for applique. This is a stitch my mother taught to me and I use it on practically every garment I’ve ever made. I am right handed so if you’re left-handed you’ll have to do the mental gymnastics to reverse this.
For my example I’m using brown button hole thread on some chunky linen. Normally I’d choose a thread which somewhat matches the fabric so that the final stitches are invisible.
1. Thread your needle. You can use the thread single or double as makes you happy.
2. Make a knot in the end of the thread.
3. Bury the knot inside the fold (or under the fold) at the right hand side of your sewing. Bring the needle out on the face of the fold.
4. Insert the needle into the hole you used to come out the face of the fold and run the needle down so that it exits exactly on the fold. Pull the needle and all excess thread out at the fold.
5. Holding the fold against the fabric to which you’re sewing it. Take a small “bite” out of the bottom fabric (1-2 threads width) and then take the needle through the very edge of the fold.
6. Pull the needle and all excess thread out at top of the fold.
7. Insert the needle into the hole you used to come out of the face of the fold and run the needle down so that it exits exactly on the fold about 1/8″ to 1/4″ further to the left. Pull the needle and all excess thread out of the fold.
8. Repeat 5, 6, 7 until the seam is complete.
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