Diary started June 21, 2012
Winter is coming… and although winter in California is not exactly awash in ice and blowing snow.. I still would like to be prepared. Currently in the SCA when it gets cold I put on my heavy wool coat which is modeled off of an early period tunic.. and a fuzzy wool hat. This year I’d like to do something a little bit different. I’ve had 20 yards of really nice fake fur tucked away in my stash for about 8 years. I’ve never really had a good use for it.. in fact at one point I actually sold it.. and the buyer backed out.. so fine I guess I’ll just use it.
Since I’ve been trying out the fashions of the late 15th century it seems only right that I should go ahead and make one of the ubiquitous fur-lined over dress that you see in A LOT of the images.
Specifically I’m interested in the fur lined garment which has A LOT of rolly-polly pleats across the front of the chest.
Although planning is starting now.. I don’t expect to be able to work on this until after Pennsic.
Details to Include:
– Pleated front V-neck dress closed with a spiral lace (probably through lacing rings)
– Wide, probably rectangular, sleeves.
– Solid colored outer (probably wool) dress with fur lining.
– Fur lining showing at the v-neck, hem and wrist cuffs.
– Wide black belt with long descender and terminal. I love this belt in this image.
– Pleats are very rounded. I plan to stuff them. Pleats continue below the belt.
A theory on construction of the Houppelande: Cynthia Virtue’s rotated-corner, circle plan houppelande
SevenStarWheel: Houppelande for 12th Night 2009 – Planning and Pattern
The magical world of Marie-Chantal Cadieux: Yet another Houppelande construction theory…(2005)
Historical Costumes Gallery: Houppelande
By My Measure: Houppelande Belts of the Early 15th Century
Mistress Corisander Seathwaite: Understanding Houpelande and Burgundian Clothing Construction(PDF)
WRT: Veils. Medieval & Renaissance Material Culture:Goffered, frilled, and fluted veils
WRT: Stuffed Pleats. Crafty Agatha: Wool Housebook Dress
WRT: Belt Fittings. Armor and Castings: Burgundian Belt Set 1
2 thoughts on “Houppelande”
Are you planning to fully line it with the fur? I was wondering if you’d get the perfectly shaped pleats because of the density of both the wool and the fur.
I’m not really certain. It seems wasteful (and hard to sew) the fur into the pleats.. but it also seems reasonable that the fur is what is bulking them out. I will have to think on it for a while.