Dress of the Court of Saxony

HRM Arianwen’s Saxony Dress

Photo by Duchess Megan

Diary started July 28, 2010
Dress Finished: September 30, 2010


Her Royal Highness Arianwen (soon to be Majesty) has expressed Her desire to wear a dress of the court of Saxony at the Tournament to determine Their Heirs. I am please to have been asked to work on this dress for Her.

Details to include:

  • Saxony dress
  • 6 yards of Red Wool. Not sure of guarding/brustflect fabric yet
  • Tight sleeves on the forearms
  • Beaded brustflect and guards
  • Gold Haube (esp to accomodate West Kingdom crown)
  • Schmuckt (the thingy around the neck)
  • Simple high-necked Hemd (it seems to be hidden by the schmuckt)(In discussing the hemd with Ari we decided to go without. The “white” portions of the dress will be linen but will not be a separate garment.)

Inspirational Pictures

Cranach, Lucas the Elder, Portraits of Henry the Pious, Duke of Saxony and his wife Katharina von Mecklenburg c. 1514 Oil on canvas transferred from wood, 184 x 82,5 cm each Gemäldegalerie, Dresden

The Plan

Calling it a plan is too formal. Really it’s a things I’m thinking about list.
– Bodice. On my brown and yellow Saxony dress the false front is sewn into one side of the bodice and laces into the other side. I’m kind of partial to that (since I’ve done it and I know it works).
– False front and Brustflect. Again I’m going to attach the brustflect to the top of a white linen false front. Given how thin the Hemd will be I seriously doubt that’s what’s behind the black stomach lace. This also nicely attaches to the top of the skirt with a short opening on the side for getting in/out of the dress.
– Since I don’t do embroidery/beading I may ask HRM to farm the embellishment of the brustflect/guards out to another interested party. She/They will need to decide on the embroidery style for the frontpiece.
– Black lace below the brustflect. Again I’ll use gold metal rings for this lace. It worked out very well. I may contemplate a different way of tying off the lace though.
– Skirt. My skirts have all be straight. I’m tempted to do a gored skirt for Ari. I’m scared of gored guards though. I’m just not sure how to attach them and get them to line up correctly. Must consider more.
– Goldhaube. Again beads and embroidery. I may ask for this piece to be farmed out as well.
– Schmuckt. I’ve seen these made of femo.. or out of fake metal clay. We’ll need to consider how we want to do this.


– Make sure we have the fabric (outer wool, inner linen, guard fabric) and findings (1 pr lacing strips, gold metal rings, a few hook/eye, 1 white lace, 1 LONG black lace)
– (Done 7/31/2010) Fit Bodice on Ari. (3 piece pattern with square neck and shoulder straps, should end at bottom of her ribs (true waist))
– (Done 8/22/2010) Adjust pattern for Saxony Dress
– (done) Make bodice
– (done) Make skirt
– (done) Make sleeves
Make accessories Their Majesties decided to wear the collars of state with the outfit and Her Majesty decided against wearing a goldhaube.

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