wams

German for doublet

lederwams

German leather jerkin

prick stitch

A variant of the back stitch worked from the face of the garment primarily used to hold down the seam allowance. See also: prick stitch

baste

A long loose stitch used to hold two pieces of fabric together. See also: basting Stitch  

smock

(shirt, shert, hemd, chemise) The first layer of white linen worn against the body.

gown

The fancy dress worn over the kirtle. Made of expensive fabrics and sometimes fur lined.

kirtle

(kirtle, cotehardie, cote, gothic fitted dress, whatever you want to call it) The support layer. A dress worn over the smock. It supports and shapes the breasts. In middle/lower class this may be the only dress worn. The type of kirtle described here is appropriate for the late 15th/early 16th century (eg. 1480s-1540s possibly earlier/later). This is later (1540s and…

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