Kampfrau (Trossfrau)

Blue and Black ToDo List

[updating as progress occurs]
(done)6+ yards of material (outer fabric)(usually wool) Deep blue med/heavy weight wool
(done)2 yards of linen (to line the bodice and sleeves) Black Linen
(done)5 yards of light linen (to make the white poofs in the sleeves) White Linen
(done)2+ yards of guard fabric (or ribbons) Oodles of 5/8″ Black velvet ribbons


TODO list:

Skirt:(Started 4/14/2011 and finished 4/21/2011)
(done)Cut out the skirt fabric (170″ x 50″ for this one).
(done)Do a simple 1/2″ rolled hem at the top of the skirt fabric.
(done)Attach the cheater strip of gingham so it’s aligned just below the top of the 1/2″ rolled hem.
(done)Pleat the skirt by running two parallel buttonhole threads over/under 4 boxes on the cheater strip per stitch. Draw tight.
(done)Cut out a piece of the outer fabric 2″ wide by slightly longer than waist measurement (50″ long for me). Fold this to enclose all raw edges and sewed it down.
(done)Add marks to waist band 7/8 inches apart.

(done)Tack the top of each skirt pleat at each mark.
(done)After all pleats are tacked to the strip remove the cheater strip and pleating strings.
(done)Then work my way around the skirt band and attached the tops of each pleat to the skirt band.

(no guards on this skirt)

Sleeves (started 4/22/2011 finished 5/19/2011)
(done) Figure out sleeves. Full to-do posted here.
(done)Fit sleeve.
(done)Mark black vs blue sections and ribbon path on pattern.
(done)Cut out black vs blue pattern pieces with seam allowance.
(done)Sew together sleeves (See full sleeve to-do post for details).

(done)Sew black velvet ribbons on top of the black linen strips.

(done)In white thread, do a tiny french seam to seal each of the white linen into tubes.
(done)In black thread, stitch along the seam line of the black pieces. (Seam is on the inside of the sleeve)

(done)Attach inner ribbons for holding sections at correct length.
(done)Attach loops to the shoulder end of the sleeve (for attaching to the buttons on the bodice).

Bodice(started 5/4/2011 finished 5/19/2011)
(done)Pattern the bodice.
(done)Cut the bodice out in the outer fabric and lining.

(done)Sew the bottom of all of the outer bodice pieces and the center front seams and neck openings of all the bodice pices. For this dress, because it will have a finished armseye, seam the armseye as well.
(done)Flip the bodice pieces around so there’s a finished seam around what will be the bottom of the bodice and the front opening (and the armseye). Iron this flat.

(done)Line up the sleeve caps with the outer fabric on the inside. Flip one piece of linen around to the other side. Sew the sleeve cap (1/2″ seam)(when you pull it straight the sleeve cap seam should be enclosed between the layers of linen and outer fabric).
Because this dress will have a finished edge on both sides of the sleeve cap I’ll have to finish the sleeve cap a little bit differently. With the front outside-out, and the back inside out, put the front sleeve cap inside of the back sleeve cap and sew them with a 1/2″ seam. (when you pull it straight so everything is right side out the seam for the sleeve cap should be enclosed between the layers of linen and outer fabric).

(done)Sew scant 1/4″ around the side seams of the bodice pieces (side seam) (flatlining) (makes the linen and the outer fabric act as one piece of fabric).
(done)Seam the bodice pieces together at the sides(1/2″ seams). The raw edges will be inside the bodice.

(done)Ideally the seams for the hook and eye for the center front opening will end up under guarding on the bodice. If so, sew through both the lining and the outer fabric to attach the hook/eye. If not.. I suppose you could attach it to only the lining.. I’m not sure how that’d work.

(done)Cut out the bodice guards.
(done)Line them up on the bodice, miter the corners and pin generously.
(done)Sew the guards down by hand.

Bringing it all together
(done)Attach the waist band to the bottom of the bodice. The band is completely hidden inside the bodice.. but this way if I ever need to pull the skirt off the bodice I can do that without having to completely re-pleat the whole thing.

(done)Attach sleeve to bodice. Attach buttons to bodice for attaching the (removable) sleeves.

(done) Close the dress opening of the skirt with a french seam. Up to 5″ below the bodice.
(if needed) Hand finish the front opening with a rolled hem
(done) Add a hook/eye to the front opening.

(done)Put temp machine hem on the dress.
Hand hem the bottom of the dress.

(in progress) Bind the black seams on the inside of the sleeve.
Bind the side seams of the bodice.


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