Kampfrau (Trossfrau)

Skirt: Done except for fiddly bits (and guards)

Successful sewing day.. all by hand.

Dress Sans Sleeves
– Because I’m an idiot.. I had to go back and fold in the bottom edge of the bodice so I had a finished edge (next time I’ll just sew it right by machine before I put the blasted thing all together). I did this on all 3 pieces of the bodice so that there’s a finished edge between the bodice and the skirt.
– I used a silver sharpie and marked the length of my little band at 7/8 inch intervals (silver sharpie because it’s what I had on hand that would make visible marks on dark green wool).
– Starting at the middle of the band and working my ways outwards to each end, I tacked the top of each pleat to a mark along the length of the band leaving 3-4 inches of the band exposed on each end. Then I went back to the end of the band and used a pin to mark the center point between the first two pleats (just folded the fabric over an inserted a pin in the middle). (1)
– I sewed the first pleat onto the band from the tack to the marking pin(whip stitch through the band, and all 3 layers of the bodice). (2)
– Then I flattened down the second pleat and sewed from the marking pin to the next tack. This left a little flap of pleat on what will be the inside of the skirt. (3)
– Then I moved the marking pin to the next mid point repeated the process until I’d sewn down the length of the band.

When all the pleats where sewn down I attached the band to the bottom of the dress. The band is completely on the inside of the dress. Initially I thought I’d run a line of stitches around the top of the band on the inside of the dress.. but now I’m thinking that’s unnecessary. I’ll leave the band loose and move on.

Tried on the dress. Fearghus confirms that it’s “N-ice”

Next to-do:
Add a hook at the bottom of the front opening. The hook/eye stop ~1.5 inches above the bottom of the bodice so I need one final hook to hold it closed and aligned.
Add another hook at the end of the left band so that it can attach ~3 inches off center of the front. This will allow the skirt to have an overlapped opening so I can get in/out of the dress.
Finish the front skirt opening. French seam until ~5 inches below the bodice.
Mark hem and trim.
Add Guards.


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