Picture by Bianca

Diary started Jun 26, 2006
Outfit Finished on August 25, 2006.

Summary

landsknecht n.
from Landsknecht “servant or soldier of the country or land”: a European mercenary foot soldier of the 16th century, armed with a pike or halberd.

Fearghus is on court for TRH Rolf and Aurora. They are stepping up in Germans (Landsknecht) and have requested that their court wear german’s as well. This is 4 weeks away.

Research and Background

My research normally centers around 14th-15th century French outfits. So all of this is pinch research. Do your own research. If you don’t like my conclusions, good. Go find better ones.

I think the fabrics should be velvet or wool with probably cotton or linen brocades for contrast.

My goal is to create a garment that is consistent with the fashions portrayed in the woodcuts of Landsknecht from about 1550 Germany.

Details to include:

• High necked linen under shirt with neck ruffles and ties.

• Black waffenrock with green guarding. Lined in green linen. Waffe at above waist level to just-above knees.
• Strumpfen (cloth hose) with Kniebänder. Tight pants with two ruffles at knees. Possibly with garter between the two ruffles.
• ?? Gartered knee high socks Possibly not necessary if Strumpfen are full length.
• Tellerbarret (pizza hat) with ostrich feathers.

I believe the -actual- outfit should have a fitted doublet beneath the waffenrock. Because of time pressures (and because I think it’s going to be stinking hot at Purg) I’m leaving that out of this iteration.

Resources

I found a lot of nice information here: http://www.st-max.org/redesign/costume-male.htm
Patterns for 16th century Men’s Costume from Germany by Michael de Lacy. Nice patterns for hose, linen shirt and doublet.
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/CptnWaffenrock/index.html

Inspirational Pictures

Found at http://www.st-max.org/todesengel_woodcuts.htm

Woodcut from Mari’s class handout.

The Mocking of Christ
GRÜNEWALD, Matthias
1503
Oil on pine panel, 109 x 73,5 cm
Alte Pinakothek, Munich

Bruegel, Pieter
The Land of Cockaigne,
1567.

Process

After looking at lots and lots and lots of pictures I’ve finally started on this project. The first piece I’m making for him is the undershirt. I’m making a neckline as is seen in this woodcut.

I cut out two panels of linen 60″x60″. At the center of one I cut the front neck slit. I then sewed these together at the shoulders. That is at the top-right and top-left of the fabric I flatfelled the outer 10 inches* (leaving ~40″ at the neck opening). Then I went around and cartridge pleated the neck. I did three strands of thread and will cover this inside and out with bands that are about 1″ wide (it’s about 1/2″ from the selvedge edge of the fabric and the first strand.. then it’s about 3/4 inch from the top strand to the bottom strand). This leaves a nice finished ruffled edge (selvege) at the neckline.
* it’s about 9″ from his neck to the point of his shoulder. 9″ plus ~1″ for seam allowance.

Last night I added the inner band to the collar. I really like the way it’s looking. I cut out a strip of linen about 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long. I ironed it flat and then ironed edge folds into it. I think it’s about 1″ wide once the folds were added. I cut off 23 inches of that strip for the inner band. That gave me about 1″ to fold under at the ends (1/2″ for each end) and left 22″ for the finished band. His neck is 21″ around and I wanted to make it roomy so it doesn’t feel like it’s choking him.
I attached it at each end of the inside of the collar and then pinned it at the center, and 1/4 marks. Then it was just a matter of pulling on the cartridge pleat strings and evenly distributing the pleats around the collar.
The band is attached to the pleats with a combination of blind-hem stitch and whip stitch. Most of the stitches are invisible.. and those that aren’t, it’s white thread against white linen. I’m OK with that.
In the picture, the blue dots were my guide for putting the cartridge pleating into place. They were made with a water soluable fabric pen so they should wash out the first time I throw it in the wash after it’s finished.

Last night I finished the outer band for the collar. It looks like a collar. It fits around his neck and does indeed look like it’ll close without choking him. He’s a little amused because at the moment the shirt resembles a poncho with a fancy collar. I’ll fix that tonight by adding sleeves. Progress is good.

I added the sleeves 26×30 (30 is the length of the arm) and gusset (8.5″x8.5″). Because I started with 60″ wide linen it’s plenty roomy. No need to add gores.
The sleeves are about 10 inches longer than his arms. This is on purpose. I added cuffs and gathered (knife pleated) the sleeve into the cuff. This gives the shirt nice poofy sleeves. I’ll add laces to the cuffs so they stay around his wrist.
I fingerloop braided a nice long 5-strand braid in white silk. I used this to make the ties at the collar.
The shirt is done except for the laces at the wrist and finishing the neck slit. I’ll do the laces tonight. I want to wait until the Waffe is finished before I finish the neck-slit opening. Just to make sure it’s long enough.
I wanted to get a picture of this last night.. but he insisted that he should shave before any pictures were taken. So no pictures yet.

July 27, later that evening

I attached lacing rings on one of the sleeves. Then Fearghus and I both decided that it’d be better if it used buttons. Removed lacing rings. Added buttons and loops. Much nicer. Don’t you agree?
At this point I’m going to call the shirt 98% done and move on to the next project. I still need to do the following:

• finish neck slit

• open sleeves a little bit further so they an be rolled up
• cut to final length and hem

I’ll come back to the shirt and finish the above.. probably after I make the Waffe.