14th century buttoned Greenland swing coat with standing collar

The Shire of Canale sponsored an event based on Gaston Phebus book of the hunt. Several months before the event they offered clothing making classes about how to make the tunics seen in the manuscript. While at one of these classes I copied a pattern from someone there. The pattern looked very familiar and after casting about for a while I realised that it was based on Herjolfnes #63. Which is essentially a 14th century buttoned Greenland swing coat with standing collar with a simplified sleeve pattern. I fiddled with the pattern a bit and sized it up to fit Fearghus and Bob. They’re both very wide shouldered.. and the flare of the pattern works very well on a larger frame.

I finished Fearghus’ tunic first(in blue).. and then realized that once he belted it the tunic was going to be too short. When I made Bob’s tunic (in cranberry) I added 4 inches to the bottom of the pattern. Then I went back and added a 9″ strip of black linen to the bottom of Fearghus’ tunic. I would have used the same blue.. but I ran out. I haven’t found any examples in Gaston Phebus with a different colored bottom strip.. but there were several examples with trim near the bottom hem.. and frankly I just needed to finish it so he could wear it.

The next time I make one of these for Fearghus I’ll start off by adding 9″ to the bottom of the pattern.

These are made with a single layer of linen and used french seams to connect the panels. I used a binding strip to attach the sleeve.. though I suppose I could have attached that with a french seam as well.

At the buttons I added a double layer reinforcement strip to both the button and the button hole side.

I also added a button at the end of the sleeve since the pattern came out tight enough that they couldn’t get their hands through the sleeves without the button.

My favorite picture from the day. Bob and Fearghus and Gunther playing dice.

I found this pattern very easy to put together. I may do this again in the future. Assuming Fearghus is ok with wearing such “late period” clothing.

Photos by Jeremy Guy and Lizabeth Workman.