Low immersion dying

http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/lowwaterimmersion.shtml

Tubular Tablet Weaving

From an email from phiala@email.com
Henshall, A. 1964. Five tablet-woven seal tags. Archaeological Journal
121:154-162.
5. Multicoloured tablet-woven cord
The charter is by John (de Balliol), King of Scotland, to Nicholas de Haia, of thelands of Erroll, etc. Granted at Lindores, 1 August 1294.
Material. Warp: silk yarn, 2-ply twisted S, dark blue, salmon pink (mainly faded to buff), white and pale yellow-green (white except where protected from the light). The white and green yarns are finer than the others, and the green has been used double.
The weft appears to be of the same white yarn as is used in the warp.
Size and condition. The diameter is 1.5 mm; the remaining length is about 46 cm. The condition is good except that it is somewhat faded.
All the ends are torn and the seal is missing.
The weave. The cord is worked on eight 4-hole tablets (ie 36 warp threads). The weave is plain, all the tablets being given a quarter turn in the same direction for each weft. The weaving is even and closely beaten, there
being about 40 weft threads per inch (16 per cm). All the tablets have been threaded in the
same direction with one exception, the 4th tablet on the diagram, with the result that throughout the cord these
4 threads are twisted in the opposite direction to all the rest. The cord is woven in the same way as a normal braid [band] except that the weft instead of passing backwards and forwards is always passed through the shed in the
same direction and pulled up tight to make the weaving tubular. This is, in fact, quite easy to do.
Reversal of the direction of the twists occurs at intervals of between 1.75 and 2.75 inches, and can be plainly
seen on three of the cords in the photograph.
The pattern. The pattern consists of two vertical rows of small squares, one blue and the other pink, with a green dot in the middle of each, and separated by white lines (unfortunately only the dark blue squares show on the
photograph). This pattern is achieved by the order in which the tablets are threaded with the different
coloured yarns:
1st tablet: 1,2,3 holes pink, 4 white
2nd tablet: 1,3 pink, 2 green, 4 white
3rd tablet: as 1st
4th tablet: all white
5th tablet: 1,2,3 blue, 4 white
6th tablet: 1,3 blue, 2, green, 4 white
7th tablet: as 5th
8th tablet: all white
The work twists spirally of its own accord if the direciton of the spiral made by the weft coincides with the direction of the twists of the tablet threads; for instance if the tablets are giving the threads an S twist then the weft must be
threaded through the shed from right to left and the cord will automatically twist in the opposite direction, Z-wise.
Comment. The method of making a tubular cord by tablet weaving with a spiral weft has not previously been recorded. It is, however, a simple way of producing a smooth cord suitable for seal tags.

Tablet Weaving: Dad's Belt


Front

Back

Turning sequence:
Turn forward until you see 5 triangles. On the 6th triangle reverse half way through. Turn backwards until you see 5 triangles.

Comments:
Using 32 cards of size 12 cotton crochet thread this piece came out to a width of just a little over 2.25 inches. The size 12 cotton crochet thread was sticky. This was the toughest band I’ve made yet. I practically bruised my chest trying to beat it.

It’s a little bit wider than the belt should be.. I guess I could have pulled the weft tighter. Someone else has suggested that it’ll stretch/tighten with wear. I hope so.

This band completed: 11/3/2002

Anglo Saxon threaded in pattern

Band completed 10/23/2002

What it is
This tablet woven band is woven using 18 tablets each with 4 strands of size 10 cotton crochet thread (a total of 72 threads) using the method described as “Pack Idling” by Peter Collingwood in The Techniques of Tablet Weaving using Thora Sharptooth’s threading sequence from her website (http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/saxontw.html). The final band wove up to just under 0.5 inches (~1cm). This pattern is naturally double sided. In essence with the pack idling method you are weaving two bands simultaneously which are attached at the selvedges and tied together by the common weft. The “back” of the bands is sandwiched in between the front and back bands and hidden from view. Because of the alternations, this band weaves up narrower and a little more dense than it normally would with only 18 cards.


Band is the same on front and back

Threading diagram
for use in Gutram’s Tablet Weaving Thingy

Turning sequence:
This band is turned only in one direction using a technique Peter Collingwood calls “Pack idling”[2]. Separate the cards into a pack made of even numbered cards and a pack made of odd numbered cards. Insert the first weft from left to right. Turn only the even cards, beat, and insert the next weft from right to left. Leave a little loop on the right-hand side of the weaving.
– Turn only the odd cards, beat, pull the last weft thread taut. Insert the next weft from left to right leaving a little loop on the left-hand side of the weaving.
– Turn only the even cards, beat, pull the last weft thread taut. Insert the next weft from right to left, leaving a little loop on the right-hand side of the weaving.
Alternate turning the packs alternately: even, odd, even, odd until the weaving reaches the desired length.

Notes:
Since weaving this belt I have learned a method from Shelagh Lewins which will allow me to more easily release the twist build up allowing me to make a longer weaving. I have not yet tested this method.

Historical Notes:
Original band was found in St. John’s Cricket Field, Cambridge and resides in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. This band was described by Grace Crowfoot in an article in 1951. The article states that the original was made of a bast fiber in blue, white and dark blue. The article describes the band as being “firmly adhered” to a strap end, embedded between the bars in the strap end.
The original article dated the find as being Saxon, late pagan, which would be around the fifth or sixth century A.D. More recently, because of the shape of the strap end and the lack of charring on the object (which was found in a cinerary urn) Penelope Walton Rogers disputes the dating of this piece and instead place it in the medieval period (Rogers, p. 125). Ms. Rogers further notes that “the technique of the patterned linen strap, with staggered rotation of the tablets, is a standard in late medieval linen girdles.” Finaly she notes that this is the only known example of a threaded-in band used as a belt in the Anglo-Saxon era.

Sources
Collingwood, Peter, The Techniques of Tablet Weaving. McMinnville: Robin & Russ Handweavers, Inc. (2002), p. 122.
Crowfoot, Grace. “Textiles of the Saxon Period in the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology”. Proceedings of the Cambridge Antiquarian Society 44 (1951):26-32.
Lewins, Shelagh. “Anglo-Saxon Belt Weaving Instructions.” Shelagh’s Website. 2008. 8 October 2012.
Priest-Dorman, Carolyn, Pikestaff: The Arts and Sciences Issue (December 1990), reprinted at .
Rogers, Penelope Walton, Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England. York: Council for Brithish Archaeology. (2007), p. 125.

Other Resorces
Anglo-Saxon Belt Weaving Instructions by Shelagh Lewins

First Tablet Weaving: Double Diamonds

I found the design for this here: http://www3.sympatico.ca/kirkflowers/tablet5.html (site no longer active)


Front

Back

Threading diagram for use in Gutram’s Tablet Weaving Thingy

Turning sequence:
8 forward
8 backward

Comments:
Using 36 cards of size 10 cotton crochet thread this piece came out to a width of just a little over 1.25 inches. The size 10 cotton crochet thread made this so easy. No stickiness. The threads just slid together.

I’ve since this learned how to keep the weft even and my next pieces are much better.
I think if I were to do this piece again I would turn the three selvelge cards on each side all in one direction to keep it nice and even. This would build up twist but I bought some swivels for that.

This band completed: 10/10/2002