Tablet Weaving

Double Diamonds My very first attempt. Well ok.. technically it’s my second attempt.. for my first attempt I decided that “this tablet weaving stuff looks easy.. I want to do double faced” and so I did a quick 2-2 warp of black and white. After a night of turning it and getting no where I un-did all the turnings and stared at it for a couple more days. Finally I saw this pattern. It looked like it’d be a nice easy way to ease into tablet weaving…. That and I’d be able to use the threads I already had on my loom.

Anglo Saxon Threaded in pattern I’d actually read Thora’s article many times.. and although it looked kind of interesting.. I wasn’t thrilled by the sample she had up on her site. It was nice but it didn’t make me go “Ohhhh!!! That one!!! I must have it.” Then I stumbled across this other sample on Eve’s web page (no longer active). -That- one got the “must have it” response.

Katie’s Trim Ok, many things at work here. I showed my tablet weaving to a couple of people at the Shire and Katie and Dianora decided that they wanted to try it. At the last Collegium I picked up an extra inkle loom for $5. So we used Gutram’s Tablet Weaving Thingy to work up the pattern. We warped up the little loom and started to weave it.. (insert pain, suffering and curse words). First off the pattern was coming up on the under-side.. so we pulled it off the loom.. reversed it.. and then we couldn’t get it to work for love nor money. After a frustrating time Katie left with the little loom…. and I just fumed and tried to figure out what went wrong. It turns out that Gutram’s tablets are lettered counter clockwise. My cards are lettered clockwise… so if I follow his patterns exactly I always end up with the pattern on the bottom of the band. To fix this I changed all the S’s to Z’s and all the Z’s to S’s. It worked like a charm and I wove up a test patch of Katie’s Trim.. and gave it to her.. so I don’t have a sample to scan.


Dad’s Belt This project is the whole reason I got started with tablet weaving. When I was growing up my Dad had this belt. He loved to wear it.. in fact he wore it until it got so worn and dirty that he couldn’t wear it anymore. So he went looking for another belt just like it. Nowhere could he find the same type of belt but somehow Mom found out that it was tablet woven. This was years and years and years ago.
So we’re coming up to Dad’s birthday this year.. and I’ve just started tablet weaving. While talking with Mom I ask her if Dad still has that belt he really liked.. and Gee could she send it to me. So I worked out a pattern based on the original.. and made it. I hope he likes it.


First Tablet Weaving: Double Diamonds

I found the design for this here: http://www3.sympatico.ca/kirkflowers/tablet5.html (site no longer active)


Front

Back

Threading diagram for use in Gutram’s Tablet Weaving Thingy

Turning sequence:
8 forward
8 backward

Comments:
Using 36 cards of size 10 cotton crochet thread this piece came out to a width of just a little over 1.25 inches. The size 10 cotton crochet thread made this so easy. No stickiness. The threads just slid together.

I’ve since this learned how to keep the weft even and my next pieces are much better.
I think if I were to do this piece again I would turn the three selvelge cards on each side all in one direction to keep it nice and even. This would build up twist but I bought some swivels for that.

This band completed: 10/10/2002

Anglo Saxon threaded in pattern

I found the design for this band in an article by Thora Sharptooth (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) reprinted here: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/saxontw.html [1]

This girdle is woven using Thora’s threading sequence. Thora seems to have based her sequence on the original article about the piece by Grace Crowfoot and discussions with Peter Collingwood. In The Techniques of Table Weaving, Collingwood has a similar pattern draft but it doesn’t include the white dashed lines that occur on either side of Thora’s sequence. Peter says that this design was found “on a scrap of a band, adhering to an Anglo-Saxon bronze buckle excavated at Cambridge”. Thora implies that it -is- a belt. I can only assume that she got this information from the original article “Textiles of the Saxon Period in the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology” written by Grace Crowfoot published in Cambridge Antiquarian Society Proceedings 44 (1950).


Band is the same on front and back

Threading diagram
for use in Gutram’s Tablet Weaving Thingy

Turning sequence:

This band is turned only in one direction using a technique Peter Collingwood calls “Pack idling”[2]. Separate the cards into a pack made of even numbered cards and a pack made of odd numbered cards. Insert the first weft from left to right. Turn only the even cards, beat, and insert the next weft from right to left. Leave a little loop on the right-hand side of the weaving.

- Turn only the odd cards, beat, pull the last weft thread taut. Insert the next weft from left to right leaving a little loop on the left-hand side of the weaving.

- Turn only the even cards, beat, pull the last weft thread taut. Insert the next weft from right to left, leaving a little loop on the right-hand side of the weaving.

Alternate turning the packs alternately: even, odd, even, odd until the weaving reaches the desired length.

Comments:

Using 18 cards threaded with four pieces of size 10 cotton crochet thread this piece came out to a width of just a little under 0.5 inches(~1 cm). This pattern is naturally double sided. Because of the alternations, this band weaves up narrower and a little more dense than it normally would with only 18 cards.

I wove this piece out of size 10 cotton crochet thread warped on an inkle loom.

It’s unlikely that the original band was woven in cotton. It’s more likely that it was woven in silk, wool or linen. None of the sources I have access to referenced the material nor colors of the original band.

It’s also unlikely that the original band was woven on an inkle loom as the inkle loom that I’m using wasn’t invented until the 19th century. It’s more likely that it was woven on a warp weighted loom or a backstrap loom. Because this pieces is turned all in one direction there was a great deal of twist build up behind the cards. Three times in the weaving I had to untie everything and release the twist. Given the amount of twist on this piece I suspect it would most easily be woven using a warp weighted loom.
Citations:

  1. Carolyn Priest-Dorman, Pikestaff: The Arts and Sciences Issue (December 1990), reprinted at http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/saxontw.html.
  2. Peter Collingwood, The Techniques of Tablet Weaving (McMinnville: Robin & Russ Handweavers, Inc., 2002), p. 122.

NOTE: Just last night(4/24/2003) I received a copy of the original article written by G. Crowfoot sent to me by Nancy Spies (Thanks Nancy!!!). OMG!!! I’ve only read it through once.. but here’s the gist. It looks like the original piece was about 1 cm (~.5 inches) wide and was made of a bast fiber.. possibly linen!! Yes, LINEN!!! G. Crowfoot writes that it looks like the original band was done with the outline and the stripes in white with the inner diamonds a light blue and the ground a darker blue (possibly woad dyed). It is “firmly adhered” to a strap end, embedded between the bars in the strap end.

I’ll re-read this some more and update this page when I have more to say.

This band completed: 10/23/2002

Other Resorces
Anglo-Saxon Belt Weaving Instructions by Shelagh Lewins

Tablet Weaving: Dad's Belt


Front

Back

Turning sequence:
Turn forward until you see 5 triangles. On the 6th triangle reverse half way through. Turn backwards until you see 5 triangles.

Comments:
Using 32 cards of size 12 cotton crochet thread this piece came out to a width of just a little over 2.25 inches. The size 12 cotton crochet thread was sticky. This was the toughest band I’ve made yet. I practically bruised my chest trying to beat it.

It’s a little bit wider than the belt should be.. I guess I could have pulled the weft tighter. Someone else has suggested that it’ll stretch/tighten with wear. I hope so.

This band completed: 11/3/2002