Kampfrau (Trossfrau)

Skirt: the pleating

Sunday was for pleats (not all day.. but a good chunk of it). I’m totally cheating.. and I’m ok with that. For pleating the skirt I’m going to use a cheater strip of gingam. I’m relatively certain -they- wouldn’t have done this.. but I’m fundamentally ok with the cheat. I found a nice woven-in gingham with (mostly) even blocks. Each…

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Kampfrau (Trossfrau)

Bodice

Saturday was about German-ating. I started the day with a nice fitting single layer of linen bodice mockup pattern and end the day with a mostly complete bodice. I clipped my seams on my mockup to 1/4 inch. Then I seam ripped my mockup apart. Using these pieces I cut two copies in linen and 1 in wool. Then I…

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Accessories

Unterhaube -> Brigitta Coif?

Idle wonderings. Might the under part of the wulsthaube be based on something like the cap commonly known as the “St. Brigitta’s cap”? It would make a very convenient structure that: – would contain long hair. – wouldn’t pull your hair when you put it on (like my current version does) – wouldn’t have ties at the neckline (which my…

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Quick&Dirty

Blue and White Byzantines

For 12th night January 2010 Fearghus was supposed to wear Byzantines. Instead we attended a wake and memorial. Anyway, because we didn’t go to 12th night I actually took alot more time finishing this garb. I used the “Feaghus Sized” patterns from my QnD Tunic patterns and just modified the undertunic to have “tight” sleeves.. and the overtunic to have…

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Accessories

Wulsthaube Mark 1

Last night I finally tried on my first (acceptable for public view) wulsthaube. I’ve been futzing with fabric and directions for a while and finally I got something I could put on my head and photograph on my head dummy. Wulst: I made a long skinny linen tube (a little bit bigger than I could fit between my finger and…

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Viborg Shirt

Skinny Little No Veggie Eating Hick!

So.. so I get some of the seams now.. but I’m still perplexed by others. Take the sleeve seam. Part A is “getting rid of the raw edges”. I get that.. but I don’t get why we used a running stitch through the two folds instead of a simple overcast stitch or even a running stitch to just hold the…

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Viborg Shirt

Viborg Progress

Monday: Finished up the right sleeve overcast seam on the commute home. Tuesday: Completed the shoulder seam. (which I then ripped out on Wednesday. Doh) The shoulder seam Sewn from the “inside” of the garment. The shoulder seam attaches the front and back linings to the “poncho” outer fabric all in on step. This is going together very quickly. Wednesday:…

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Viborg Shirt

Viborg Shirt Observations, Conjecture and Puzzlement

Gusset and Neck Hole The gussets are almost exactly the same size as the neck holes.  It would be convenient, and save fabric to make the gussets out of the fabric removed to make the neck holes. Fabric Width and Pieced Lining I assume that given enough fabric the medieval seamstress would have preferred to cut the linings as a…

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Viborg Shirt

Front Lining

Sunday morning I bought some more linen. I very carefully found linen of the right weight, with a firm selvedge, that (at least reported that it) was 100% linen. I washed and dried this and FINALLY cut out all the pieces. This linen is -still- slightly wrong as compared to the medieval linen. Modernly, firm selvedges are reinforced.. that is…

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Viborg Shirt

Groking the Pattern

Cheap krinkle linen is put away. Probably will use it for a chemise or somesuch. Got new linen and washed it.. No krinkles. Saturday I dragged a table out of the garage and into the dining room and used that to lay out fabric to cut out the Viborg shirt. I totally -grok- it now. I know why it was…

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