Of immense interest:
[updating as progress occurs]
(done) Sew the bottom of all of the outer bodice pieces and flip the bodice pieces around so there’s a finished seam around what will be the bottom of the bodice.
(done) Line up the sleeve caps with the wool on the inside. Flip one piece of linen around to the other side. Sew the sleeve cap (1/2″ seam)(when you pull it straight the sleeve cap seam should be enclosed between the layers of linen and wool).
(done) Sew 1/4″ around the outside of all the outer bodice pieces (flatlining) (make the linen and the wool act as one piece of fabric).
(done) Seam the bodice pieces together at the sides(1/2″ seams).
(done) Attach the placket to one side of the bodice. (1″ offset)(I prefer this on the left-side as you’re wearing the garment).
Progress pics 8/31/2010:
(done) Cut out the bodice guards.
(done) Do a rolled hem on the colored placket on all sides (it should exactly match up with the left/right sides of the white placket). Applique the colored placket onto the top of the white placket.
(done) Attach the lacing rings below the colored placket (4 per side).
Bind the seams.
(done) Cut out the skirt fabric (120″ x fabric width). I’ll hem it to length later.
(done) Just below the rolled hem, attach a cheater strip of gingham.
(done) Cut out a piece of
(done) Tack the top of each skirt pleat at each mark.
(done) After all pleats are tacked to the strip remove pleating string and the cheater strip.
(done) Attach the band to the bottom of the bodice. The band is completely hidden inside the bodice.. but this way if I ever need to pull the skirt off the bodice I can do that without having to completely re-pleat the whole thing.
(done) Figure out guard width and placement.
(done)Close the dress opening with a french seam.
A few weeks ago I patterned Ari in some scrap linen.
Tonight I traced Ari’s pattern onto poster board and added seam allowance. All pieces got seam allowance of 1/2 inch on all sides and the placket also got an addition 1 inch on each side to accommodate the overlap.
Now I’ll wash all the dress fabric (which I should have done last week but obviously I never think of that until I’m ready to use the fabric) and measure the front right side of the pattern to find out how long of a lacing strip I need to get. I’ll try to leave work early tomorrow to get the lacing strips.
The goal is to have something for Ari to try on this weekend at Purg (and cross my fingers that she’ll have time to try it on).
Diary started July 28, 2010
Dress Finished: September 30, 2010
Her Royal Highness Arianwen (soon to be Majesty) has expressed Her desire to wear a dress of the court of Saxony at the Tournament to determine Their Heirs. I am please to have been asked to work on this dress for Her.
Details to include:
Calling it a plan is too formal. Really it’s a things I’m thinking about list.
– Make sure we have the fabric (outer wool, inner linen, guard fabric) and findings (1 pr lacing strips, gold metal rings, a few hook/eye, 1 white lace, 1 LONG black lace)
Woot! Lower sleeves went together very quickly. These have straight “hedgehogs”** unlike the upper sleeves where the top “hedgehogs” followed the curve of the armcye.
All said I think it took 2-3 hours to do both sleeves and to re-do the gold part that goes over my hands. I just need to hand-finish the flat-felled seam and tidy up the seam on the yellow and these will be done.
Between Mists Investiture and 12th night:
** Mari taught a class and used three terms to refer to fancy things we do to our sleeves. I’m pretty certain her terms are personal rather than documentable 🙂 Hedgehogs are the little bumps on the sleeves.
It’s not going as quickly now that there’s not an immediate looming deadline.. but it is going. The bodice it now completely attached to the skirt. The part across the front where there is no bodice is attached to a piece of wool and then attached to the bottom of the white placket.
I’m still toying with the idea of leaving the placket out.. but I’m not ready to do that by this next weekend. I’ve added a hook-and-eye to the top of the skirt and have trimmed the skirt (had to remove about 6 inches with the move from pipe-organ pleats to cartridge pleats). This opening is now pinned. I’ve also pinned the upper part of the sleeves into the bodice.
It’s looking pretty good that this will all get done by this weekend.
On Sunday Ysabella had Mari come and teach a class on German’s. Nice class. Lots of pictures. Mostly confimations of things I’d come to understand. The class gave me time to finish with attaching the gold trim. It’s all nice and flat.
On Monday night I ironed and then attached a 100% cotton gingam strip to the top of my skirt. This will be used as a guide for getting the stitches for the cartridge pleats set.
The sleeves are in two parts.
Last night I trimmed about 1.5″-1.75″ off the bottom of the bodice all around and then finished that edge. Since I’m going to be attaching cartridge pleats I needed a finished edge. The plan for tonight is to re-attach the gold trim along the front edges of the bodice and to finish all the hand stitching on the trim on the front and the back.
I started the weekend with a finished dress and finished the weekend with a couple of bags of pieces of dress. It’s like a deconstructed german dress 🙂