Erik’s Waffenrock

erik_waffePlanning began December 9, 2014.
Outfit first worn January 3, 2015.

Summary

While working on the outfits for Coenwulf, Katla and Kolskegg I was repeatedly struck by how very cute it would be if I dressed my son, Erik (13 months), in a waffenrock. Especially if he were walking. As fate would have it, Erik started walking about 3 days after his first birthday November 19, 2014. As soon as that happened I knew that I would have to make him a waffenrock that matched his daddy’s waffenrock for 12th night.
Continue reading Erik’s Waffenrock

Coenwulf’s Waffenrock

West Kingdom 12th Night 2015.  Front view.

West Kingdom 12th Night 2015. Front view.

Planning began December 2012.
Oufit finished November 22, 2014.

Summary

A while ago Coenwulf traded me a Kitchen Aid mixer for a waffenrock. For many different valid and invalid reasons this has taken a lot longer than expected. Many thanks to Coenwulf for his patience.

The body of the waffenrock will be modeled after the “Hauptman” image using black wool with burgandy speckles for the base and burgundy and gold brocade for the guards. The “noodly appendages” will be modeled after the waffe sleeves in the second inspiration picture. The fake-wam sleeves will be simple fitted sleeves made of a black and orange zig-zag fabric. A second set of undersleeves will be made up in another shocking loud orange fabric.

Normally, in period, there would be wams (a fitted doublet), shirt and hosen worn under the waffenrock. Because we live in California we decided to fake the wams by adding removable undersleeves. The faked-wams-sleeves will tie unto the waffenrock at the armseye hidden by the waffenrock sleeves.

I’m annoyed as heck that on the day that he first wore the outfit I totally forgot to get any pictures. Luckily he agreed to pose for pictures at 12th night(January 2015).
Continue reading Coenwulf’s Waffenrock

Kolskegg’s Outfit

Kolskegg at court.

Kolskegg at court.

Work began August 2014.
Outfits first worn November 22, 2014.

Summary

Kolskegg and Katla, the current Prince and Princess of the Mists, asked me to do their stepping down outfits. My work for his outfit consists of a high collared hemd (white linen), knee length hosen (orange linen), waffenrock (black wool with green wool guards), and fancy fake-wam sleeves (strappy sleeves made of black and green wool).

The waffenrock, hemd and hosen will be modeled after the “Hauptman” image using black wool for the base and green wool for the guards. The fancy-fake-wam sleeves will be modeled after the sleeves shown in “Bartl zalt micht vil”. These will be black and green wool straps.
Continue reading Kolskegg’s Outfit

1517: Landsknecht Reitrock

Fearghus at Beltane 2012

Diary started Nov 13, 2011.
Outfit first worn Jan 7, 2012.

Summary

Fearghus is on the guard for TRH Uther and Kara. They are stepping up in “late period” and have asked their court and guard to match their colors (black and grey). Fearghus mentioned he would really like a new Waffenrock for 12th night. After looking over the images he decided he liked the look of the “Master Bear Hunter” outfit from the The Triumph of Maximilian.

Inspirational Pictures

Master Bear Hunter

Details to include

– Base fabric is dark grey herringbone will use red and grey slashed guards.
The waffenrock will be split front and back to lie correctly when riding, ie a Reitrock aka: riding coat. Decided not to do this.
– The doublet “sleeves” will be about 2 inches long around 3/4 of the armscye and have hidden attachment points around the inside for “fancy” sleeves.
– I’m going to make this with removable fancy sleeves. That way if he gets overheated he can remove the sleeves and still wear the waffenrock.
– Fancy sleeves will be fancy. (still working out what they’ll look like).
– He’s asked for sleeves similar to the sleeves I did for my blue dress.
– The back of the doublet will have 2 vertical guards and one horizontal guard (top edge). The vertical guards will go up, over the shoulder straps and then down each side of the front. The front of the doublet, will also have one horizontal guard at the top edge.
– skirt will have one guard 3-4″ wide 3-4″ up from the bottom.
– The guard on the skirt portion doesn’t look like it lies flat to the skirt. It’s sewn bubbled and this looks like it would cause the slashes on the guard to open wider.
– Guards are red base fabric with grey slashed top fabric. Grey will need to be cut on the bias and sewn on “bubbled” to give the proper appearance. The grey will need a turned edge.. the red may be ok w/o a turned edge.
– Where possible I’m going to use the buttons I have which have bear paw prints on them.
– new black hat with lots of feathers
– New shoes. (on order from Boots by Bohemond)
– New pants (I cut up his old pants to take a pattern)

Fabric

– 8 yards of black herringbone wool. It feels like wool flannel.
– 4 yards red wool for the under layer of the guarding
– 4+ yards of grey/silver/green fabric for the top layer of the guards
– 4 yards black linen for lining.

Pattern

– Pull old Waff apart. Use that for a pattern with noted alterations.
– cut down width of back piece by 1 inch
– cut down shoulder straps to a total of 12 inches (not including seam allowance)
– Add to bottom of the front placket 3 inches + inches lost from the straps
– Skirt is good length and fullness. Use the same.

TODO:

– (done) Pull old Waff apart. Use that for a pattern with noted alterations.
– (done) Make guards.
Doublet
– (done) Cut out doublet exterior and interior.
– (done) Sew doublet together around all edges except sides and armsceye.
– (done) Sew sides of doublet together with a 1/2″ seam turning the seams to the interior of the doublet.
– (done) Hand finish armsceye with tabbed mini sleeves
– (done) Add attachment points for fancy sleeves.
– (done) Add guards
Skirt
– (done) cut out skirt
– (done) Add guard
– (done) Pleat skirt to a band
– (done) Attach band to bottom of the doublet.
Fancy Sleeves
– (done) cut out a red linen sleeve
– (done) cut out the grey herringbone wool (the wool is twice as long as the red sleeve but the same width)
– (done) Add ties on the slashes to hold them in place

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Post-mortem

Everthing was wearable. He looked -fabulous-. Here are the pictures to prove it:

procession_Fearghus.jpg
fearghus_inprocession.jpg
Picture by Bianca


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3 Days until Purg
I finished the guards, attached the skirt, adjusted the fit, and added a button (instead of hook/eye) to the bottom corner of the doublet. I also tweaked the pattern for the pants.
Minimum left to do: Hem shirt, open sleeves of shirt a little bit, wash shirt(to get rid of the blue fabric pen marks)(grrr). Make Pants. Hem Waffe. Finish last two button holes. At that point it’s wearable for Purg.
Additional to do: Bind seam allowance for waffe sleeves, applique the bottom of the waffe guards, add a guard to the waffe sleeves.

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5 days until PurgTwo more button holes left (I hate button holes). Friday I made a sleeve (lined) and attached it. Then ripped it off and reattached it correctly *sigh*. Saturday I attached the other sleeve. If I’d known what I was doing when I “designed” the Waffe I think I could have eliminated at least 3 (possibly 6) of the button holes. Oh well. I’ll know better next time.
Sunday night I started on the guards for the skirt portion. It’ll have two guards (2″ and 3″) that are 1 inch apart and about 2 inches from the hem. They’re going well. Oh, minor gripe: Fabric marking pens for making white marks on black fabric SUCK. By the time I got done drawing the lines down the length of the skirt (375″ worth), the lines at the beginning of the fabric had faded to the point I almost couldn’t see them.
At this point I need to finish the guards, pleat the skirt, attach skirt to doublet, add hook/eye to bottom corners of doublet, hem the skirt, add guards to sleeves, and bind the sleeve seam allowance. Then I’m done… with the Waffe. (wheee) Still need to complete the shirt (minor stuff) and make the pants. I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to get it all done though.

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Ugh. I hate button holes. I think it’s more the fact that they look messy and take a terribly long time. In the post above I said “I need to add 3 more buttons and 6 more button holes”. It’s official, I can’t count. There’s a total of 12 button holes, not 6 like I miscounted. Last night I attached the last of the buttons (yeah) and finished 3 of the button holes. That only leaves 9 more to go (oy).
But I have pictures! (that’s got to make up for the pitiful progress, right?).

grwaffe_front.jpg
grwaffe_back.jpg
grwaffe_buttons.jpg
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waffenrock_pattern.gif
Pattern pieces (not entirely to scale). Because he wants a green triangle to show when he unbuttons one side, I’ve marked one side in green.

I had a slightly-better-than-average night last night. His Waffenrock is sewn together except for the skirt and the sleeves. I need to add 3 more buttons and 6 more button holes. It’s going -very- quickly.
How it works: The pattern shown is wrapped around him with the straps in the back. Each strap has 3 buttons on the end of it. The green piece is wrapped around and then the strap on the left buttons through the outer corner of the green side and then the armpit corner of the other (black) side. The right hand strap buttons through the armpit corner of the green and then the outer corner of the other side. The bottom half will be held in place by the skirt (and possibly a pant hook and eye).

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After an initial “God, I don’t know how to do this” it turns out the Waffenrock is relatively easy to pattern. I have a basic pattern worked out for the doublet portion and expect to have that sewn together this week.
Hell, if I have a better-than-average night I might even have it sewn together tonight. Boo-ya.