Thrum Cap started August 3, 2018. Finished August 20, 2018. Fulled August 21 and 22. From Merriam-Webster Thrum noun Definition of thrum 1 a (1) : a fringe of warp threads left on the loom after the cloth has been removed (2) : one of these warp threads b : a tuft or short piece of rope yarn used in…
Antwerpen White linen partlet started May 12, 2018. Finished June 9, 2018. Special thanks to Aleit Pietersdochter over at The New Cut who is working on documenting 16th century Dutch costuming terms and dug up the terms “Halscleet”/”Halsdouck”/”halscleer” which seem to be the proper name for this white linen partlet. Single layer of white linen for the body of the…
A while ago I found myself fascinated with a hat. I blame Tullia. Happily the hat is limited both chronologically and geographically. As far as I can tell this headgear was popular from 1485-1515 in northern France/Brittany and the Netherlands. Even more happily that seems to coincide with my waisted kirtles which I like to wear so much. I made…
Diary started Feb 23, 2010. Gollar first worn Sunday December 4, 2011. Summary German dresses are lovely.. but if you leave your tata’s uncovered they’re going to get cold. I’ve wanted to make a Gollar for a long time. A Gollar is a short, sometimes fur-lined cape sometimes with a collar worn over many of the German dresses. A few…
My original Hemd was a good first attempt.. but after several months of wearing it I’ve decided it could do with a little improvement. Since I’m deathly allergic to altering garments that I need to wear I instead decided to make a new hemd. Here’s my new pattern: Here’s the reasoning for my new pattern: Problem: Neckline was cut out…
I ended up adding short bones under the hook/eye tape on either side of the front opening. As a happy coincidence the tapes are almost exactly wide enough to hold the bones. So it was very easy to tuck them into place. The bones are about 7 inches long.. so 1-2 inches shorter than the hook/eye tape (I was using…
I don’t -know- what was actually used as the unterhaube.. so I’m taking my best guess. It turns out that using something -like- the St. Brigitta coif is actually very convenient. It ties on top of the head and the steuchlin is tensioned over it and pinned into place. The unterhaube: Cut two pieces of white linen about 8″x14″. Hold…
The hemd came out beautifully. Running it through the wash did rumple it a little but it was easily revived with a quick ironing. I did find that the collar may be a bit too tall for my neck. When I tie it closed it bends and folds oddly. I think if I’d made it 2″ tall instead of ~3.5″…
At Mists Investiture this last weekend I finished the last of the smocking. I think it’s beau-ti-ful (click to embiggen). I’ve removed the pleating threads and stretched it out a little. After all the smocking the neck came out a little bit bigger than 50% of the original width. I’ve decided to line the collar both for comfort and to…
Along with my Trossfrau/Swiss Dress I need an appropriate hemd(chemise). Inspirational Pictures Plan There are several acceptable styles(high neck, low neck, rounded neck, etc). I’ve decided I like a high-necked front-opening hemd with honey-comb smocking at the neck. When I made the shirt for Fearghus’ Waffenrock I used a pattern very similar to one suggested by Rainillt in the Pleatworks…