Huve – Antwerpen white linen coif

Antwerpen white linen coif started April 2, 2019 and finished April 7, 2019.

Special thanks to Aleit Pietersdochter over at The New Cut who is working on documenting 16th century Dutch costuming terms and dug up the terms “Huve”, “Huive”, “Huyfd” which seem to be the proper name for this white linen coif.

Although a lot of the Antwerpen market women wear their hair braided and taped and keep it visible, enough of them wear a coif that I wanted to recreate one.
Initially I made an Elizabethan coif using coif 1b pattern from The Marquess of Winchester’s Regiment’s instructions. After comparing what I made to the reference images I realized that the Antwerpen huve is much smaller. This version lands behind my ears and shows off the front of my hair. I do think that it’s still a little bit too long at the curve at the ears. The edge of this is still barely hitting at/over my ears. I’ll cut my next one back a smidge further (maybe 1/2″ further back at the rounded part).
Initially I tried this on with my hair down and thought it was an abysmal failure. This will NOT stay on my head if I don’t have my hair braided and up in hair tapes. Once I did my hair properly though this thing stuck to my head like it was glued on.

INSPIRATIONAL IMAGES

PROCESS

• Cut out pattern in white linen. I used a medium weight white linen from Fabric-store.com IL019. The squares on the pattern are 1 inch.
• Add a 1/4″ folded hem to the top and bottom edges
• Add a 1/4″ folded hem to the face edge
• Connect the left-top and right-top edge (the part to the right of what is marked “gather”)
• Run a pleating thread with strong thread around the portion marked “gather”
• Fold the bottom edge up to form a casing and stitch it in place
• Use a piece of narrow ware in white (grosgrain or other simple ribbon) and thread that through the casing.
  
• In wearing this, cross the ribbon at the base of the neck (snorking the casing up tight-ish), take the two sides of the ribbon to the top of the head in front of the taped braids and tie it tightly on top of the head.
• When you take this off you can leave it tied and then scoot the bow around until it is hidden inside of the casing. Then when you put it on you just have to place the huve on your head and move the loop over the taped braids.

PROGRESS PICTURES

SOURCES

Loyaute, Aimez. , The Marquess of Winchester’s Regiment. “Living History Guide – Coifs and Hair” Printed from http://www.marquisofwinchesters.co.uk/2017/01/23/living-history-guide-coifs-and-hair/ in June 2018.
Walker, Bridget. “Designing a 16th Century Linen Coif” Class handout. From class taken at West Kingdom Collegium 2018.

BINGE LIST

Agents of Shield – (Netflix) We went to see Captain Marvel (loved it) and it occurred to me that if Captain Marvel, the Avengers and Agents of Shield are all in the same world.. then I’d missed the ending that explained whether/if Daisy cracked the world.. or if there was some hint of Thanos snappening in Agents of Shield. I also wondered if I recognized the bad guy from Captain Marvel as one of the people shown in Agents of Shield (I didn’t, just my inability to recognized faces). I think I missed the last time Agents of Shield came back from a random hiatus. I am now catching up. I’m still puzzled how the cracking of the world and Thanos may (or may not) be related.