Kolskegg’s Outfit

Kolskegg at court.

Kolskegg at court.

Work began August 2014.
Outfits first worn November 22, 2014.

Summary

Kolskegg and Katla, the current Prince and Princess of the Mists, asked me to do their stepping down outfits. My work for his outfit consists of a high collared hemd (white linen), knee length hosen (orange linen), waffenrock (black wool with green wool guards), and fancy fake-wam sleeves (strappy sleeves made of black and green wool).

The waffenrock, hemd and hosen will be modeled after the “Hauptman” image using black wool for the base and green wool for the guards. The fancy-fake-wam sleeves will be modeled after the sleeves shown in “Bartl zalt micht vil”. These will be black and green wool straps.

Inspirational Pictures

Todo List:

– (done) Drape the body portion to make a pattern.
– (done) Drape a fitted sleeve pattern.

Waffenrock
– (done) Wash wool and linen.
– (done) Cut out wool outer fabric and linen lining for body of garment.
– (done) Sew together body portion along sides with 1/2″ seam allowance. All seams are enclosed between the fashion fabric and the lining fabric.
– (done) Sew sleeve caps together. Lining to lining and outer fabric to outer fabric.
– (done) Sew 1/4″ around neck opening so that seam allowance will be enclosed between the outer and inner fabric.
– (done) Sew 1/4″ around the armseye (flatlining) (makes the linen and the outer fabric act as one piece of fabric).
– (done) Cut out guards. 4.5″ wide green wool
– (done) Attach the guards to the body of the garment with basting stitch.
– (done) Attach guards to the body of the garment with slip stitch and remove the basting stitches.

– (done) Draft a pattern for the waffenrock sleeve.
– (done) Cut out wool outer fabric and linen lining for waffe sleeves.
– (done) Cut out sleeve guards.
– (done) Sew guard to sleeves with basting stitch.
– (done) Sew the sleeves together.
– (done) Attach the sleeve to the body of the garment.
– (done) Sew guards to sleeves with slip stitch.
– (done) Add undersleeve attachment points.

– (done) Cut out skirt.
– (done) Hem skirt.
– (done) Attach guards to skirt.
– (done) Attach skirt to body of garment.
– (done) Finish inside of skirt.

Fake-Wams Sleeves
– (done) Cut out removable undersleeves.
– (done) Sew them together.
– (done) Add ties.

Progress Pictures

Progress notes

Hosen – orange linen pants

Todo
– (done) Mark seams and cut apart a pair of pants to make a pants pattern.
– (done) Adjust pant pattern to add seam allowance.
– (done) Cut out pants.
– (done) Cut out canvas reinforcement.
– (done) Sew together pants and reinforcement.
– (done) Add cuff on pants to hold garter.
– (done) Cut out and slash codpiece.
– (done) Sew codpiece.
– (done) Add eyelets for laces.
– (done) Add laces.
– (done) Add strong tie through laces to hold pants up.

To make the hosen we started with a pair of Kolskegg’s just-about-to-fall-apart-but-still-fit-well jeans. With a sharpie I drew in where I wanted the hosen seam lines to fall and a mark at knee length. I then cut the jeans apart on these seam lines and used that to make a new pattern piece. To this new pattern piece I first added 1/2″ seam allowance and then added 2″ at the waist.

After spending a few days thinking about it I realized that I wouldn’t be able to just add a self-enclosed drawstring because that would make the pants too tight and tough to get them on. I mulled it for a few days and then finally decided I’d add points and a codpiece. It’s the more period way to handle the pants and it didn’t look like it would be all that difficult. I did worry that the points would pull right out of the linen so I also added a canvas reinforcement. Hopefully the combination of the two will keep the eyelets in the pants. Since we’re not making wams instead the points will be tied to a strong drawstring or belt and that will be used to keep the pants up.

I bounced between the instructions published in the Tudor Tailor and posted by Genoveva on her site.

These hosen are fairly plain. I did slash the codpiece (because it looked kind of unhappy and lonely when it was undecorated) and I added two sets of loops around the knee (like seen in the “Hauptman” image) which will hold a silk garter.

The hosen are the first completed garment of this ensemble. Now I just hope they fit.

Good news, they fit~!

Hemd – white linen under shirt

Todo
– (done) Figure out shirt pattern to use for undershirt.
– (done) Wash white linen.
– (done) Cut out shirt.
– (done) Sew together shirt.
– (done) Add cuffs
– (done) Add inner collar
– (done) Add blackworked collar (stretch goal).


Recommended Books

Tudor Tailor
Landsknecht Woodcuts: Kriegsvolker im Zeitalter der Landsknechte

Links

Genoveva’s instructiosn for Hosen http://germanrenaissance.net/landsknecht-hosen-pattern-instructions-slashed-german-trousers-pants/

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