Diary started June 21, 2012


Winter is coming… and although winter in California is not exactly awash in ice and blowing snow.. I still would like to be prepared. Currently in the SCA when it gets cold I put on my heavy wool coat which is modeled off of an early period tunic.. and a fuzzy wool hat. This year I’d like to do something a little bit different. I’ve had 20 yards of really nice fake fur tucked away in my stash for about 8 years. I’ve never really had a good use for it.. in fact at one point I actually sold it.. and the buyer backed out.. so fine I guess I’ll just use it.

Since I’ve been trying out the fashions of the late 15th century it seems only right that I should go ahead and make one of the ubiquitous fur-lined over dress that you see in A LOT of the images.

Specifically I’m interested in the fur lined garment which has A LOT of rolly-polly pleats across the front of the chest.

Although planning is starting now.. I don’t expect to be able to work on this until after Pennsic.

Details to Include:

– Pleated front V-neck dress closed with a spiral lace (probably through lacing rings)
– Wide, probably rectangular, sleeves.
– Solid colored outer (probably wool) dress with fur lining.
– Fur lining showing at the v-neck, hem and wrist cuffs.
– Wide black belt with long descender and terminal. I love this belt in this image.
– Pleats are very rounded. I plan to stuff them. Pleats continue below the belt.

Inspirational Pictures

See Also

A theory on construction of the Houppelande: Cynthia Virtue’s rotated-corner, circle plan houppelande
SevenStarWheel: Houppelande for 12th Night 2009 – Planning and Pattern
The magical world of Marie-Chantal Cadieux: Yet another Houppelande construction theory…(2005)
Historical Costumes Gallery: Houppelande
By My Measure: Houppelande Belts of the Early 15th Century
Mistress Corisander Seathwaite: Understanding Houpelande and Burgundian Clothing Construction(PDF)

WRT: Veils. Medieval & Renaissance Material Culture:Goffered, frilled, and fluted veils
WRT: Stuffed Pleats. Crafty Agatha: Wool Housebook Dress
WRT: Belt Fittings. Armor and Castings: Burgundian Belt Set 1

2 thoughts on “Houppelande”

  • Are you planning to fully line it with the fur? I was wondering if you’d get the perfectly shaped pleats because of the density of both the wool and the fur.

  • I’m not really certain. It seems wasteful (and hard to sew) the fur into the pleats.. but it also seems reasonable that the fur is what is bulking them out. I will have to think on it for a while.

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