Diary started June 23, 2011
Dress progress: bodice patterned, fabric washed
Summary
Pennsic is coming. Since I’ve been rapidly changing sizes and have shrunk out of all my German clothes and because Pennsic occurs in Pennsylvania at the height of summer I’ve decided I need something cooler(and not made of wool) to wear. I had mostly decided to wear tunics for the whole event (and I may still do that) but I’d like to have the option of something a little more form fitting.
In grepping teh Intarwebs I stumbled across images of the 15th century wasted kirtle. This very strongly reminds me of my german dresses but the bodice is a lot longer. I’ve decided to try it out and see how it goes.
Research and Background
These dresses are seen in a lot of images by Flemish artists.
Details to include:
– Supportive bodice with back and side seams.
– Spiral lace closure in the front that extends below the waist seam
– Waist seam at natural waist
– Rounded neckline front and back that is self-bound.
– Chemise that barely peeks up above the neckline
– Short sleeves with pin on lower sleeves of a different color.
– Skirt pleated into the waistline. I plan to only have pleats in the back.
– Trapezoidal gored skirt.
– specific kind of belt worn low on the hips
– White linen tailed cap
Inspirational Pictures
Rogier Van der Weyden, detail Seven Sacraments 1445-1450
Rogier van der Weyden, 1430-35 Detail from The Descent from the Cross. Note that this dress is probably made from squirrel pelts
Rogier Van der Weyden, detail Braque Family Triptych, Mary Magdalene, 1450 - 2
Hans Memling, passion altar 1491
See Also:
Kirtles with a waistseam
Three kirtles illustrated by Rogier van der Weyden c. 1445-50.
15th Century Female Flemish Dress: A Portfolio of Images
15th Century Women’s Clothing During England’s War of the Roses
Blue 15th Century Kirtle with Trapezoidal Skirt Panels (finds from london)
The kirtle the medival dress of the 14th century
Sleeves
Will the Real Fifteenth Century Sleeve Please Stand Up?
Flemmish kercheif/coif/head thingie
Flemmish Kerchief
Process
I’ve spent quite a while thinking about this and finally set to work on this a few night ago. I have a bodice which I’ve used for my german gowns. That bodice ends at around the bottom of my ribs. I fiddled with this pattern and extended it down so that the bodice now ends at my natural waist (I added ~3″-4″ to the bottom all around). I also fiddled the pattern so that it uses side seams.
Then I threw the brown linen I’d set aside for this project into the washer. I only have 5 yards so I hope that’s enough. I suppose if it isn’t I’ll have to order more linen.
