My original Hemd was a good first attempt.. but after several months of wearing it I’ve decided it could do with a little improvement. Since I’m deathly allergic to altering garments that I need to wear I instead decided to make a new hemd. Here’s […]
[updating as progress occurs]
(done) The placket is two layers of white linen (the colored part will be appliqued on the top part later). Sew all along the outside edge of the placket and turn it inside out. Press it flat and then hand finish the last bit.
(done) Sew the bottom of all of the outer bodice pieces and flip the bodice pieces around so there’s a finished seam around what will be the bottom of the bodice.
(done) Line up the sleeve caps with the wool on the inside. Flip one piece of linen around to the other side. Sew the sleeve cap (1/2″ seam)(when you pull it straight the sleeve cap seam should be enclosed between the layers of linen and wool).
(done) Sew 1/4″ around the outside of all the outer bodice pieces (flatlining) (make the linen and the wool act as one piece of fabric).
(done) Seam the bodice pieces together at the sides(1/2″ seams).
(done) Attach the placket to one side of the bodice. (1″ offset)(I prefer this on the left-side as you’re wearing the garment).
Attach the lacing strip Add grommets near one edge of the white placket (I prefer the right-side as you’re wearing the garment).
(done) Attach a strip of grommets to the other side of the bodice (leave room for the 1″ offset)(I prefer right-side as you’re wearing the garment).
Progress pics 8/31/2010:
(done) Cut out the bodice guards.
The guards are folded in half with both raw edges together(widthOfGuardFabric = 2 * (Desired Width + 1/2″ flip/seam allowance) ). Normally I double up the guards. I think this time, instead I’ll just hem one edge and economize on fabric usage (widthOfGuard Fabric = Desired Width + 1″ seam/flip allowance).
(done)Line up the raw edges of the guards with the raw edges on inside of the bodice and attach the guards (generous 1/4″ seam allowance). Flip guards around the outside of the edge and pin in place.
(done) Miter the corners and pin generously.
(done) Finish the guards by attaching with a hidden (appliqué) stitch.
(done) Do a rolled hem on the colored placket on all sides (it should exactly match up with the left/right sides of the white placket). Applique the colored placket onto the top of the white placket.
(done) Attach the lacing rings below the colored placket (4 per side).
Bind the seams.
Each gingham block is 3/8″
8 gingham blocks per pleat (4 per side). 3″ /pleat
2 blocks at the top of each pleat+ 1/8″ will attache to the bodice… so 7/8″ / pleat around the waist band
Waist is 34 inches. (includes some overlap).
That gives me 39-ish pleats(34 / 7/8) for a total of 117″ (39 * 3″) of skirt. I’ll fudge this and cut out 120″ just to be on the safe side. I’ll probably end up trimming down to 117″.
The guards on the skirt will be attached on top of the wool, tacked and then appliqued down.
(done) Cut out the skirt fabric (120″ x fabric width). I’ll hem it to length later.
(done) Do a simple 1/2″ rolled hem at the top of the skirt fabric.
(done) Just below the rolled hem, attach a cheater strip of gingham.
(done) Pleat the skirt by running a single thread over/under 4 boxes per stitch.
(done) Cut out a piece of
wool linen 3″ wide by 38″ long (slightly longer than waist measurement). Fold this to enclose all raw edges and sewed it down. (Ari’s worried about wool on her skin so I’ll do the band out of linen instead. It should be totally hidden on the inside of the bodice when the dress is done)
(done) Add marks 7/8 inches apart.
(done) Tack the top of each skirt pleat at each mark.
(done) After all pleats are tacked to the strip remove pleating string and the cheater strip.
(done)Then work my way around the skirt band and attached the tops of each pleat to the skirt band.
(done) Attach the band to the bottom of the bodice. The band is completely hidden inside the bodice.. but this way if I ever need to pull the skirt off the bodice I can do that without having to completely re-pleat the whole thing.
(done) Figure out guard width and placement.
(done) Cut out skirt guards.
(done) Line up the fabric pattern and use a hidden applique stitch to make the guards the right length.
(done) Attach the top of the guards to the skirt.
(done) Tack down the bottom of the guards.
(done) Appliqué to finish the guards.
(done) Remove the tack stitch from the bottom of the guards.
(done)Close the dress opening with a french seam.
(not needed) Hand finish the front opening with a rolled hem(???)(waiting on final fitting, see if hem is needed)(it’s highly fulled wool so may not need the opening hemmed).
Add a hook/eye to the front opening.(waiting on final fitting, see if hook/eye is needed)
(done) Hem the bottom of the dress.
(done) Fit Ari for her sleeves.
(done) Make upper part of sleeves.
(done) Make straps.
(done) Make “puffs” and attach to sleeves
(done) Make lower part of sleeves. (including cuff)
(done) Attach sleeves together.
(done) Bind the seams.
Having now worn the red/black linen dress twice.. I can say with authority that my bodice pattern needs to be altered.
The straps in the front are too far apart so that when I reach forwards (ie, wash dishes) the edge of the strap cuts into my arm uncomfortably. Further, I believe the lower part of the bodice isn’t flaired enough over the ribs so that if I slouch the bodice tends to bunch up under my bosom.
As long as I’m standing up straight with my arms at my side, the current bodice is fine.. but as soon as I get more active I become uncomfortable with the way it’s fitting. Ah well. I guess it’s back to the drawing board.
Definitely I’ll fiddle the bodice pattern BEFORE I make any more dresses for me. ATM this fiddling is scheduled for AFTER my vacation next week(and hopefully BEFORE Purgatorio). I’d like to be able to re-cut my red linen bodice and have it all set to go for Purg (Aug 27-29).
Artichokes, Arugula, Asian Greens, Basil, Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Collards, Corn, Eggplant, Fava Beans, Fennel, Garlic, Kale, Leeks, Lettuce, Mustard, Okra, Onions, Peas, Peppers, Potatoes, Radish, Spinach, Summer Squash, Tomatoes
I don’t -know- what was actually used as the unterhaube.. so I’m taking my best guess. It turns out that using something -like- the St. Brigitta coif is actually very convenient. It ties on top of the head and the steuchlin is tensioned over it and pinned into place.
Cut two pieces of white linen about 8″x14″.
Hold them up to your head and pin them together along the curve of your head.
Cut off and discard the portion marked in grey.
Do a flat-fold seam along the edge marked in red.
Do a simple rolled hem around the other edges of the coif (marked in blue).
Pleat the bottom back portion of coif and add your ties to the bottom corners of the front edge.
The ties should be long enough to go from the center of the back of your head to the top of your head (leave excess and cut them off when you figure out how much you need.
I did my hair up into two braids and then bobby-pinned them across my head.
Put your new coif on your head. Cross the ties at the back of your head and bring them up to the top of your head. Tie firmly. This should keep your unterhaube in place.
When you’re satisfied with your unterhaube, create the wulste (bulge). A tapered sausage shape that will run over your head from ear to ear. It’s a tapered linen tube that I’ve stuffed with some extra wool roving I had from an abandoned spinning project.
Whip stitch this to your unterhaube. It should be placed about the top-middle to the back of the middle of the top of your head. When tied on, the ties should sit in front of the wulst.
Drape this with your steuchlin.
For my current steuchlin I’m using a wool pashmina(28 inches wide x 68 inches Long with 3 inches fringes) I acquired for $8 ($0.99 item, $7 shipping) from Ebay.
I folded back ~20″ of the pashmina so that the fringe will be on the inside near the back of my head. Then I did a line of stitches along the edge of the pashmina on the inside to make it into a tube.
To put it on, I pull the sewn portion of the pashmina around my head and onto my neck. Then I pull it back over the wulsthaube to get nice tension. Lastly I pin it with a single (really strong) pin at the back of my neck (be careful that the pin point isn’t going to stick you in the back of the neck when you look up). I think if I measured carefully enough I could probably attach it without the pin.. but that would depend on the elasticity of the wool to keep it in place.