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Landsknecht Waffenrock, 1517
Last night I added the inner band to the collar. I really like the way it's looking. I cut out a strip of linen about 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long. I ironed it flat and then ironed edge folds into it. I think it's about 1" wide once the folds were added. I cut off 23 inches of that strip for the inner band. That gave me about 1" to fold under at the ends (1/2" for each end) and left 22" for the finished band. His neck is 21" around and I wanted to make it roomy so it doesn't feel like it's choking him.
I attached it at each end of the inside of the collar and then pinned it at the center, and 1/4 marks. Then it was just a matter of pulling on the cartridge pleat strings and evenly distributing the pleats around the collar.
The band is attached to the pleats with a combination of blind-hem stitch and whip stitch. Most of the stitches are invisible.. and those that aren't, it's white thread against white linen. I'm OK with that.
In the picture, the blue dots were my guide for putting the cartridge pleating into place. They were made with a water soluable fabric pen so they should wash out the first time I throw it in the wash after it's finished.