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August 04, 2003

Going Italian - the crib notes

Bah. It's been a long time.

Here's the crib notes.
- I made a corded bodice. I'm lumpy. Corded bodice smoothed it out somewhat. I added some boning. Face it, I'm still lumpy.
- I made the dress out of gorgeous red linen and lined the skirt with tan poly/linen.
- I took out the zig-zag gather I'd put in the top of the chemise and instead used a very loose cartridge pleat sewn into a band. I'm very pleased with that.

When you put a corded bodice over Jen's chemise the chemise ends up being almost shorter than knee length. Really not liking that. I'll definately lengthen the linen/blackworked chemise by at least 8-10 inches.

When you wear a corded bodice under a linen dress it has a tendency to show. Not too keen on that. Two possibilities to fix this. 1) I can make the bodice and incorporate the cording into the bodice. In between the linen layers. or 2)I took a class at A&S about the evolution of Italian fashions. The person who taught it said she's only ever used a layer of canvas in between the linen layers to act as stiffening. Problem with solution 2 is that she isn't so lumpy. Not too sure.

When you wear a chemise without formal sleeves, you tuck them up. This is nice. It's a "getting some work done" type look. It's also much cooler than wearing sleeves. Anyway, with tucked up sleeves it's obvious I used a -big- french seam. Going to use flat-felled seams on the linen/blackworked chemise.

When the lacings are done accordng to this pic: http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/florentine/flor17.html you really need someone to tie you into the dress. NOT only that!! If the person tying you into the dress can't tie a decent slip knot, be sure you have someone to help you get out of it. I've only had to cut myself out of the dress once. But geez. What a PITA.

All in all I think it's not too bad for my first attempt at an Italian.

Yes, I did say first.. it's a nice dress style. I'm thinking about making one in the lovely blue/green linen I got on sale. I'm also thinking about re-making the red one.. I never have added the guards I want to add. I think I'll make the blue-green first. Maybe this is a good excuse to try out the 2 bodice styles.